Page 85 - Msingi Afrika Magazine Issue 8

MY AFRIKA

gentle and peaceful place to visit. who practice the religion of ortho-
The story has it that the establish- doxy bowing down on the streets
ment of Entoto St. Mary church facing their temples in prayers, then
came through prophecy. The you will instantly know how reli-
prophecy was about a king who gious Ethiopians are and how devot-
would build a church in honor of ed they are to what they believe. I
the Virgin Mary on Entoto Moun- found it strange though, for even in
tain. In 1882 the then king of Shewa the public bus, you would see faith-
Menelik waged a war against Tekle ful praying toward the temples as the
Haymanot of Gojjam at Embabo bus passes by these sites. But it’s — the youngest female in the family
(Amare and Fasil, 1987; Hailege- worth the sight and the magic that — then heats water in a long-necked
breil, 1987). comes with it. black clay pot, over hot coals. The
At this battle, King Tekle Hay- I remember how we were hailed black clay pot is known as a jebe-
manaot went to the battle with a and called "Afrikans" as we passed a na. A traditional coffee ceremony
number of Tabots and Menelik won group of men drinking coffee. We is always conducted by the youngest
easily and took away many treasures. were even asked to join them in their female in the family. It is an honor
Among the most valuable objects coffee drinking, but I was focused on to host the ceremony, and every
captured with Tekle Haymanaot getting photos for my collection and step and guest is carefully attended
was a tabot of St. Mary (Zemedkun, my wife was trying to get a local scarf, to. With the water starting to sim-
1992). so we passed on the opportunity to mer, she roasts the beans on a thin,
Hence, the origin of the tabot of sit with them. I must say I regretted open-faced pan. She keeps the roast
Entoto St. Mary is largely associated not having a seat with them, at least I as even as possible by stirring them
with a fascinating story. It is believed would have learnt a new thing from constantly. It's up to the host how
that the age of the tabot goes back to them. And besides, of what use is a long the beans are roasted.
the time of Atse Dawit (1380-1430). visit to such an ancient land without
According to Haile siilsase Atse relating with the locals. I won’t make
Dawit brought the tabot of St. Mary that mistake next time.
from Bulga and placed it at Entoto.
Even though much later in the 16th Jebena Buna
century, Entoto St. Mary church, Another thing I must say I regretted
like other churches of the time, was not doing in Addis was not tasting
a victim of Ahimed Giragn’s war, the the famous very strong Ethiopian
community and the clergy of Ento- home-brewed Jebena Buna coffee.
to managed to rescue the Tabot to My wife had told me about it even
Gondar. before we visited Addis and how
very black and strong it is. I guess
We couldn’t stay or do much on En- that's one reason I didn't agree to
toto Mountain on the day we visited, have a drink even when I had the
because it happened to be a special opportunity to do so. That mistake
annual service day, so photography too will be corrected whenever I visit
was basically not allowed and also Ethiopia again.
we had issues with our travel card J__ebena buna, as it's called in the
and couldn’t access much spending local Amharic language, is an Ethi-
money. So we cut down our expens- opian coffee ceremony and like it's
es so as not to get stranded on that popularly said it is not designed for
trip. But it was fun all the same walk- someone in a hurry. The prepara-
ing on that land filled with such rich tion can be excruciatingly slow. But
ancient heritage. I think slow is good for a great Jebe-
na Buna and for anything of worth.
Around Addis First, coffee cherries are picked,
A walk around Addis is quite magi- when red and ripe and peeled to ex-
cal for me, for when you see faithful pose the raw coffee bean. The host

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