Page 87 - Msingi Afrika Magazine Issue 11
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ROAD TRIP  AFRIKA




                   owards the end of         prominent Maasai: Mbatian was an   Mackinder in 1899 on the recom-
                   January 2021, news of     Oloibon (Laibon: Spiritual Leader,   mendation of Sidney Langford
                   a planned trip to Lake    Prophet. This was not a political   Hinde who was the resident officer
          TEllis in Mount Kenya              role.) of the Maasai community.    'in charge' of Maasai land at the
          area reached my husband and I. An   He is referred to as their greatest   time of Mackinder’s expedition.
          adventure beckoned! Who were we    spiritual leader, his tenure marked   Those who wrote these things down
          to resist? Especially since – for vari-  by peace, prosperity, increase and   claimed Mackinder was the first per-
          ous reasons – that famous mountain   harmony among the Maa people.    son to ascend to the top of Mount
          had been on our minds in the days   Mbatian prophesied about the      Kenya.
          immediately preceding that news.   coming of the white men and the
          Excitedly, we confirmed our partic-  railway line and cautioned his people   Mount Kenya is also home to the
          ipation and began to make the nec-  not to move out of their ancestral   elusive black panther, that beautiful
          essary arrangements: warm clothing,   lands, lest they die of smallpox and   dark-skinned leopard made famous
          things to cook with, things to cook   their cattle perish.  Nelieng was his   by the movie... and since 1997
          and so on; after all, this was going   brother and Olonana, Mbatian’s   has been on the list of UNESCO
          to be an off-road camping trip and   second son who also became an    World Heritage sites. The mysteries
          we had to be prepared. We stretched   Oloibon. Much like Jacob, Olonana   of Mount Kenya we will leave for
          our coins, borrowed what couldn’t   successfully tricked his father into   another day, except to say that this is
          be bought and made ready as much   giving him power instead of his    where the country of Kenya even-
          as one can for the unknown.        older step brother Senteu, sparking   tually drew its name... an anglicized
          One thing that niggled at us was the   division and conflict between the   mispronounced form of the original
          name of this place... after all, the   brothers and the Maasai people,   name of the mountain known as
          name Ellis wasn’t one found in the   which weakened them over time.   Kirinyaga/Kii nyaa/Kirenyaa/Ol
          annals of Afrikan nomenclature.    Olonana went on to befriend the    Doinyo Keri/Ol Doinyo Eibor/Ol
          What on earth could have brought   British and became their unwitting   Doinyo Egere, in the various local
          this about? Located 3455meters or   pawn in eliminating pastoralism   languages of the people who inter-
          11335.3 feet above sea level, at the   from the lands that they wanted to   acted with the mountain. The name
          foot of Mugi Hill in the undulating   use for farming... effectively limiting   itself meaning the striped mountain
          landscapes that immediately sur-   the mighty Maasai to reserves and   and also a reference to the feathers
          round Mount Kenya, is Lake Ellis.   later into reducing the sizes of the   of a male ostrich in comparison to
          The lake was named after Thomas    reserves.  Olonana was welcoming   the black and white coloration of
          Evelyn Scott-Ellis who was said    to the American missionaries, who   the mountain and its peaks. And
          to have been the first European to   he expected would introduce useful   that it retains spiritual significance to
          reach the lake in 1927. The name   skills to his people, but they too,   the people of the mountain to this
          Ellis is derived from the name Elias   uneasy with the idea of nomadic   day. Of the name and purpose of
          which is the anglicized form of the   pastoralist life, began to teach his   the country, you can read more in
          name Elijah. More on that later.   people farming. His was a tragic   our story on Kenya in Issue One of
                                             decline in glory and favor with his   Msingi Afrika Magazine.
          About Mount Kenya                  people. These three peaks’ names
          Mount Kenya is the second highest   were suggested by Sir Halford John   Our journey took us northwards
          mountain in Afrika and is home to a
          diversity of flora and fauna, a collec-
          tion of 31 lakes and tarns (tarns are                                            Driving through rough terrain
          glacial lakes), a wonderful collection                                                 Photo: Samuel Phillips
          of hills, valleys and multiple peaks
          which are pyramidal in nature. The
          three highest being (in ascending
          order) Lenana (4985m/16,355ft),
          Nelion (5188 m/17,022ft) and Ba-
          tian (5199m/17,058ft). Nelion and
          Batian are misspellings of Nelieng
          and Mbatian and Lenana is an angli-
          cization of Olonana. The three were



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