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Food  health
                                                                                                    Food health


          Ethiopian barley has been          these grains as mere “scarcity     world’s most alarming

          isolated so long that it has       foods.” This is wrong: wild        case of desertification.
          been given its own botanical       grains were eagerly eaten even
          name, Hordeum irregulare,          when pearl millet, for one, was    These so-called “lost” plants of

          and has developed its own          abundant.                          Africa have much to offer, and
          genetic “personality.” This        Many modern writers also           not just to Africa. Indeed, they
          ancient barley is grown mainly     imply that the wild cereals        represent an exceptional cluster
          in Ethiopia, where it ranks        were gathered only on a small      of cereal biodiversity with
          fourth among crops, both in        and localized scale. This,         particular promise for solving

          production and area.               too, is false. The harvest in      some of the greatest food-
          Throughout most of the upper       the Sahara, for example, was       production problems that will
          highlands, it accounts for over    large-scale, sophisticated,        arise in the twenty-first century.

          60 percent of the people’s         commercial, and much of it         This potential for utility in
          total plant food. Ethiopia is      was export-oriented. The wild      the future is because Africa’s
          perhaps unmatched concerning       grains were a delicacy that        native grains tend to tolerate
          barley diversity. Indeed, some     even the wealthy considered        extremes. They can thrive
          scientists think it is a source    a luxury. Examples of such         where introduced grains

          of new germplasm that could        untamed cereals are drinn,         produce inconsistently. Some
          boost barley growing in Africa     golden millet, kram-kram,          (tef, for instance) are adapted
          and around the world.              panic grasses, wild rices, jungle   to cold; others (pearl millet, for

                                             rice, wild tefs, and crowfoot      example) to heat; at least one
          Ethiopian Oats                     grasses.                           sorghum to waterlogging; and
          Ethiopia is home to native                                            many to drought.
          oats, Avena abyssinica. This       Resurrecting the grain-            Moreover, most can grow
          species was domesticated in        gathering industry of the          better than other cereals on

          the distant past and is a largely   past might be a way to help       relatively infertile soils.
          nonshattering plant that retains   combat desertification,
          its grain so people can harvest    erosion, and other forms of        For thousands of years, they

          it. It has long been used in       land degradation across the        have yielded grain even where
          Ethiopia and is well adapted to    worst afflicted areas of the       land preparation was minimal
          the high elevations there. It is,   Sahel and its neighbouring        and management poor. They
          however, unknown elsewhere.        regions. A vast and vigorous       combine well with other crops
                                             grain-gathering enterprise         in mixed stands. Some types

          Wild Grains                        might perhaps provide enough       mature rapidly. They tend to
          As noted, people in Africa         economic incentive to ensure       be nutritious. And at least one
          have been eating wild grains       that the grass cover is kept in    is reputed to be better tasting

          for perhaps 100,000 years.         place and that overgrazing is      than most of the world’s well-
          In modern times, however,          controlled. That would bring       known grains.
          various writers have discounted    environmental stability to the



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